Ain’t No Mountain High Enough By Christina Duffy
Although the domestic rowing season had finished for the summer, ICBC members could still be found forlornly hanging around the boathouse in Putney. We could only be shifted with Tom Sutherland’s solemn promise of +2000 metre climbs and high speed descents through the Pyrenees in Southern France. And so last August boats were switched for bicycles and oars replaced with pedals, all dissassembled and loaded into the mini-bus for the long drive to the picturesque village of Luz-St-Sauveur for some pre-season cross training.
The first four days were spent ascending and descending the surrounding terrain including past Tour de France climbs such as the infamous Hautacam. Road signs are placed at every kilometre mark detailing the distance to the summit and the average gradient until the next sign. Conditions were misty intially, veiling what must have been spectacular views resulting in chilling conditions at high altitudes. Less steely-nerved cyclists were nursing their hand cramps and requiring a change of more than just brake blocks after particularly steep descents. A minor respite on day 4 ensued with a vist to Lourdes and a brief stop-off at Lac de Lourdes where Winny, who gets very distracted when within a five mile radius of a lake, and his speedos, made their first of many appearances.
On day 5 basecamp was shifted and the route for the day involved climbing and descending the highest mountain road pass in the Central Pyrenees: Col du Tourmalet towering at 2115m. The climb to the peak is 19km from Luz St. Saveur with an average gradient of 7.4% and reaching 10.2% near the summit. Regrouped at the peak we realised this was only as high as the road went. We had to get to the very top. And touch it. Bikes were ditched and after an hour of hiking we arrived at Observatoire du Pic du Midi de Bigorre at 2877m. Ben Anstiss and I were less than enthused about the lake that Winny had earmarked for a swim on the way up, and so we inadvertently smuggled our way down on the ski lift ending up on a different mountain, and having to hitch our way back to the bicycles. With bicycles and cyclists reunited, a speedy descent left the troops at the foot of yet another mountain, and after climbing Col d’Aspin it wasn’t long until arrival, albeit destroyed, at the chalet in Estarvielle.
Taking advantage of fatigue and the lack of an ability to think rationally, Winny managed to convince Chewy (Rachael Davies) and Nick Ablitt to join him the following day after excitedly spotting yet another lake on the map. Will Todd had already annouced his undying love for Winny and would not be parted so the foursome headed off in high spirits the following morning.
After cycling beyond Col du Peyresourde, the road ended turning into a steep and rough track. Lac de Borderes ou de Bareilles was the destination, and while other professional climbers struggled with hiking boots and climbing sticks, our four heroes, donned in lycra and flip-flops, shoulder pressed their bicycles to the summit.
Will and Winny suddenly saw the lake and although in a state of near hypothermia they did what they had come to do. Then the eyes of both were opened, and they knew that they were naked; and they sewed fig leaves together and made themselves aprons. Well sort of… they got dressed again.
Fueled by carefully rationed cereal bars and only a handful of raisins conditions continued to worsen and morale was low. Hallucinations started kicking in after surviving a viscous bull attack, some dangerous stumbles and the sudden drop in temperature resulting in an emotionally broken Chewy asking a distant rock to take their photograph. Top navigation from Nick eventually brought the crew safely home. It was, apparently, ‘Epic’ and the saga was re-lived over and over and over, and over again during the drive home in the mini-bus. Which we couldn’t get out of for 17 hours. Sigh.
Meanwhile back at basecamp it was BBQ night. The girls & Ben prepared the food while the boys stood around prodding the coals and discussing the best method of ignition. Sargeant Iain Palmer assumed control of the cooking and soon burgers, kebabs and sausages were being savaged. It was approaching darkness when our four very exhausted adventurers made their way back to the chalet, who were only too delighted to be bombarded by fireworks upon their arrival.
Following a tough week on the legs it was with great relief that the local lake were offering canoe rentals and we could give the quads a rest on our final evening and get some upper body workouts. But they were too expensive, so we got pedalos instead. After repeatedly nailing each other up and down the lake we finally but briefly relaxed to catch a few rays.
The minibus was on call all week for those finding themselves or their bikes broken half-way up a mountain. Luckily there were no emergencies with only a few punctures and a broken gear cable reported over the week. Thanks to all our drivers who helped out. Praise is well due to svelte athletes Clarice Chung and George Addams for their ability to tear over the mountains in impressive style. Other noteworthy cyclists were John Davey who ‘owned’ himself all week and Tom Sutherland, who not only organised the entire week and planned the routes but showed impressive endurance covering as many cols as possible. Aching and sunburned, but fit as fiddles, we celebrated a very successful trip upon our return to London.